Keeping your fishing lures in top shape is key to success on the water. Rusty hooks, faded paint, or smelly plastics can cost you big catches – and money. Regular maintenance not only extends the life of your tackle but also keeps lures working as designed. In this guide, we’ll show you why lure care matters and how to do it. We’ll cover step-by-step cleaning for hard baits, soft plastics, spinners, spoons, and jigs, plus tools, rust prevention, storage, seasonal checklists, and more. Consider this your friendly, in-depth manual from one angler to another – so you can spend more time fishing and less time dealing with gunky gear.
Hard Baits: Remove Rusty Parts & Soak
First, deal with the metal parts. As Wired2Fish advises, remove all hooks and split rings from a neglected hard lure. These metal components rust easily, so discard any rusty ones and replace with new hooks and rings. This makes cleaning safer and avoids damaging the lure’s finish.
Next, rinse the bait in warm water. A gentle stream of warm water (even from the sink sprayer or a hose) will wash off loose dirt and grit. This initial rinse softens stubborn grime without needing to scrub.
Soak and scrub with mild soap. Once rinsed, make a soapy solution using a gentle dish detergent (Dawn or similar) and warm water. Let the lure soak for a few minutes, then use a soft cloth or sponge to gently scrub the surface. Pay extra attention to grooves, bill cavities, and eye screws. You don’t need heavy chemicals – a liberal amount of Dawn on a damp paper towel can remove most of the grime. Keep rinsing and checking as you go; once you can run your finger over the surface and feel no dirt, the soap has done its job.
Tackle tough spots with a toothbrush and mild cleaner. For any spots the soap didn’t budge, skip harsh solvents or alcohol (they can strip paint!). Instead, try a non-abrasive household cleaner and a soft-bristle toothbrush. A little toilet-bowl cleaner sprayed on stubborn stains can help without hurting the lure. Gently scrub (using circular motions) and rinse frequently to avoid damaging the lure’s finish.
Final rinse and dry. After scrubbing, rinse the lure thoroughly with clean water to remove all soap or cleaner. Then, pat dry with a microfiber cloth or let it air-dry completely in a shaded area. For jointed or swimbaits, open up the joints and let any water drain out.
Optional polishing and waxing. For an extra sparkle (especially on older lures), consider a quick shine step. Some anglers even use a little metal polish (like Nevr-Dull) on hardware, or spray a coat of lure wax/sealant (e.g. Lucas Slick Mist) to add gloss and protect the finish. If your hard bait has moving joints or hinges, apply a drop of light machine oil (like sewing-machine oil) to keep it moving smoothly. This spring-cleaning routine can make an old lure look and fish like new.
Cleaning Soft Plastic Lures
Soft plastics (worms, grubs, tubes, etc.) deserve special care. They can absorb odors and stick together if not stored correctly. After using them, give soft baits a gentle wash: soak them briefly in warm soapy water with a bit of mild dish detergent. Use your hands to rub them clean and rinse thoroughly. Avoid harsh chemicals, which can dissolve plastic or leach out attractive additives.
Remove lingering smell. Over time, plastics can pick up fishy or musty odors. To banish smells, try soaking plastics in a baking soda solution or soak overnight with white vinegar (1 part vinegar to 4 parts water). Rinse well afterward. Some anglers even let them dry completely with a bit of dry baking soda sprinkled on them to neutralize odors, then shake off the powder.
Keep shapes and scents intact. When storing soft baits, most anglers leave them in their original bags. Many soft-plastic packages are designed to maintain the bait’s shape and scent. As one tackle blogger notes, taking plastics out of the factory bag can cause them to bend or lose their intended profile. In fact, storing live-looking plastic worms in a tackle tray can sometimes kink them, affecting how they swim. If you do move them to boxes, consider using dividers or dedicated trays. Some anglers even place a scented cloth or dryer sheet in the bag to keep the scent fresh (just ensure it doesn’t dissolve the bait).
Dry completely before storage. Moisture can mold soft baits. Lay them flat on a towel to air dry briefly before sealing them away. If the packages are sealed but soft, open them to allow air flow. In damp climates, many anglers put a small silica-gel pack in the plastic bag to keep them dry.
Tools & Products for Lure Maintenance
Having the right tools makes lure care easy and effective. Here are some essentials to keep on your tackle table:
Soft brushes: A soft-bristle toothbrush or small nylon brush is perfect for scrubbing nooks and crannies without scratching lure paint. Bottle brushes or pipe cleaners can also reach into deep bodies or tubes.
Toothpicks/wooden skewers: Great for poking out gunk in eyelets or tiny spaces.
Mild detergent: A gentle dish soap (Dawn is a favorite) is ideal for lifting grime off plastic and paint. Avoid bleach or ammonia.
Baking soda and vinegar: These household items can act as mild cleaning agents. Baking soda paste (baking soda + water) lightly polishes surfaces. White vinegar or lemon juice soaks help dissolve rust or buildup on metal parts.
Metal polish: Products like Flitz or Twinkle Metal Polish can restore shine to spoons, spinner blades, and metal components. Apply with a rag after cleaning to seal the metal.
Magic Eraser: A melamine sponge (Mr. Clean Magic Eraser) is surprisingly good at removing stubborn stains on lures, jig heads, and tackle boxes. Wet the eraser and gently scrub. It even buffs off rust spots around hooks.
Silicone cloth: For a final wipe-down, a silicone-treated rag (like those sold for rods/reels) leaves metal parts shiny and protected.
Light lubricants: A few drops of clear reel oil or even light household oil (like sewing machine oil) on moving lure parts prevents sticking and corrosion. WD-40 is often recommended on forums for quick rust prevention, but use it sparingly (it attracts dust).
Wax or sealant: Lure-specific wax sprays (such as Lucas Slick Mist) add a layer of protection and shine. They repel water and slow oxidation of decals.
Tackle storage: Quality boxes, bags, and trays keep lures organized and dry. We’ll cover storage in detail below, but plan to use vacuum-sealed bags for plastics, silica gel packs for boxes, and segmented trays for grouping lures.
Keeping these items in your tackle kit makes maintenance quick. A small bucket or tub for soaking and a dedicated cleaning area (even an old plastic shelf) will protect your gear. Remember: clean tools, clean lures. After use, rinse and dry brushes and cloths to avoid transferring grime.
Step-by-Step: Cleaning Hard Bait Lures
Hard baits include crankbaits, jerkbaits, swimbaits, topwaters, etc. These often have paint and clear-coat finishes that can be sensitive. Here’s a logical cleaning sequence (inspired by a Wired2Fish tackle tip):
Remove hardware: As mentioned, pliers or cutters to remove rusty hooks, split rings, and swimbait tail-weight clip rings. Start clean – new hardware costs little. This also makes scrubbing safer.
Rinse thoroughly: Run the lure under warm water or spray with a hose. This loosens sand, algae, and salt. Gently rub by hand to see if more comes off. If it’s very dirty, let it sit in warm water briefly.
Soap & gentle scrub: Lather some dish soap on a soft paper towel or brush and wipe down the lure. Work along seams, mouths, and hinge points. Rinse and repeat. The lure surface should feel noticeably cleaner to touch.
Detail cleaning: For any remaining grime or stains, spray a bit of non-abrasive cleaner (like a toilet bowl spray or Flitz polish) on the lure and scrub with a soft toothbrush. Go easy at first to preserve paint. Pay attention to the bill (lip) and any joints – these hide gunk after long storage.
Final rinse & inspect: Rinse off all cleaners with fresh water. Inspect paint, eyes, and any decals. If rust appeared on any metal, brush it off now or decide if you need to replace that part.
Lubricate moving parts: If it’s a multi-jointed bait or prop bait, apply a drop of machine oil on the joints and work it back and forth. This can free stuck action. Do not oil non-moving hard baits – only use on swivel eyes or hinges.
Wax and shine: Finally, a quick mist of lure wax or polymer sealant can restore a glossy finish. A microfiber cloth buffs it out to a showroom look. This layer also repels water and slows future corrosion.
With these steps, your hard baits will be free of slime, the colors will pop, and they’ll fish like new. As Wired2Fish notes, this process even brought old dredged lures back to “package-fresh” quality. Imagine grabbing a long-unused crankbait and seeing its original shine again!
Step-by-Step: Cleaning Soft Plastic Lures
Soft plastics don’t have hard shells, so cleaning focuses on removing odor and stickiness:
Gentle wash: Fill a sink or bucket with warm water and a little dish soap. Drop in plastic worms, grubs, creature baits, etc., and swish them around. A gentle hand-rub is often enough. This removes fish slime and any salt or debris.
Odor elimination: To tackle smells, try a soak in baking soda water (mix Arm & Hammer baking soda in warm water) for a few hours, then rinse. Alternatively, an overnight soak in vinegar solution (followed by a fresh-water rinse) is recommended on forums. After either treatment, wash again with mild soap and rinse.
Dry & separate: Lay plastics out to dry for a few minutes. Once damp rather than wet, return them to their packaging or storage boxes. Keep different colors/baits separated to avoid dye transfer. If in doubt, use ziplock bags or dedicated trays to sort each type.
By cleaning and drying, you not only prevent stinky tackle bags but also avoid mushy plastics. Remember, unlike hard lures, soft baits can degrade if left dirty or wet. Proper cleaning and storage will keep their action and scent intact.
Cleaning Spinnerbaits and Spinner Blades
Spinnerbaits (and buzzbaits) have metal blades that tarnish and rubber skirts that can wear out. Off-season cleaning on these is very effective. Wired2Fish’s spinnerbait guru recommends a simple 3-step tune-up:
Polish the blades: Use a metal polish or Nevr-Dull polishing bar to buff each spinner blade. Work the underside and edges, removing any rust or green tarnish. Nevr-Dull is convenient – it won’t scratch painted surfaces and leaves a protective finish. Wipe blades with a soft cloth when done.
Check hooks and skirts: Inspect your wire frame and hooks. Sharpen the points with a hook file if needed. Replace frayed skirt rubber. If a skirt’s rubber band is weak, overwrap it with fine stainless wire to hold the skirt in place when fishing. (Many anglers skip replacing the whole skirt by just securing the band.) If any skirt is glued on, cover it with tape before painting – then let it dry fully.
Lubricate joints: If you have any swiveling spinner bits (like quick-change blades), drop in a bit of oil on the swivel. Also wipe down the arm and hook eye with silicone or oil to repel moisture.
Once cleaned, store spinnerbaits by size and type in dedicated boxes. Wired2Fish suggests Plano 3504 slotted boxes for keeping spinnerbaits neat. Use a few silica gel packs in each box to absorb humidity – this keeps blades shiny and prevents rust. (This tip applies to all metal lures: tuck in those silica packs everywhere to wick away moisture.) Now your spinnerbaits are prepped for next season without missing a beat.
Cleaning Spoons
Spoons are simple lures but get very tarnished. Here’s the lowdown:
Simple soak: Tarnish on silver spoons responds well to a soak in white vinegar or lemon juice for a couple of hours. After soaking, scrub gently with extra-fine steel wool or a soft rag to remove loosened tarnish. Rinse thoroughly.
Metal polish finish: Follow up with a metal polish (Flitz, Twinkle, or even silver polish) to bring out the shine. A small cotton wheel buff can achieve a mirror finish on bigger spoons.
Wax or clear coat: For long-term storage, consider a thin coat of protective wax to slow re-tarnishing.
Avoid harsh acids like battery acid or muriatic unless you know what you’re doing – these can strip paint or ruin a good finish. A user on SportFishingBC recommends just vinegar and Flitz, and many online anglers swear by toothpaste as a gentle abrasive polish for minor scratches.
Some anglers also talk about WD-40 for spoons (it’s essentially a water-displacing oil), which can clean and then protect the finish. If using WD-40, spray on and wipe off any excess (it smells fishy but generally safe). But the vinegar soak method is safe and very effective at removing rust without weapons-grade chemicals.
Cleaning Jigs
Jigs are a bit of both worlds: rubber skirt and metal head. To clean jigs:
Wash the rubber: Remove the skirt if it’s detachable (many jigs have rubber band skirts). Wash the head and hook in soapy water to remove grit. Rinse thoroughly. If the skirt is removable, rinse it separately in fresh water and let dry.
Check the hook: Look for rust or dullness. A quick pass with a hook file on both sides will restore a sharp point. Never fish a jig with a dull hook – a drop of oil on the hook’s eye (before reattaching the skirt) will slow down rust.
Inspect skirt band: If the rubber band looks old, replace it (or wire-wrap as with spinnerbaits). Skirts can be vacuum-sealed in storage but let them air-dry first.
Paint touch-up: For serious rust on a jig head’s paint, you can sand it lightly and repaint with hobby enamel and a clear coat. Some anglers also use nail polish or epoxy on chipped jigs.
Jigs often spend time next to saltwater or weed, so a quick rinse after use and periodic hook checks will keep them locked-in. Use Mr. Clean Magic Erasers on jig heads or hooks rusting near the eye – it’ll get them nearly back to new.
Preventing Rust and Prolonging Lure Life
Prevention is the best cure. Here are key steps to prevent rust and make lures last years:
Rinse immediately after use (especially saltwater). Salt is the enemy of tackle. As Nomad Design and fishing pros advise, rinse every lure with fresh water after fishing. Use mild soap in rinses if it’s extra grimy. This flushes salt and organic residue so corrosion never starts.
Dry everything thoroughly. Before putting lures away, make sure they’re bone dry. Wipe them down with a cloth and then air-dry in a warm spot (not hot sun) so any hidden moisture escapes. Never store lures wet or damp. Trapped moisture in a closed tackle box leads to quick rust.
Oil coated: A light film of oil on hook points and split rings will slow rust. After drying, apply a drop of reel oil or light household oil on hooks and metal connections. Less is more – you want only a fine sheen. Before fishing again, some anglers rinse or wipe off excess oil so it doesn’t affect hook-ups.
Use desiccant packs: As mentioned, toss silica gel or “dry packs” into your tackle boxes and bags. These evaporate any stray moisture in the box. Change them out or recharge them occasionally (dry them in the sun). Desiccants are cheap and extend the life of terminal tackle.
Separate fresh and salt gear: If you fish both, have dedicated sets. As The Fisherman warns, dried salt residue will corrode even if you clean everything else. Prevent contamination: keep saltwater lures separate or clean them last and let them dry fully.
Regular inspections: Every season or two, pull out all lures and inspect. Sharpen hooks, replace any rusted split rings, and clean as needed. This annual tune-up catch problems before they get worse.
By making these habits part of your routine, you’ll cut way down on lost lures and failures due to rust. Remember: “fishing lures are expensive, but they’re not disposable”. A few preventive steps after each trip can save big money.
Seasonal Cleaning Checklist
Treat the change of seasons as a reason to give your tackle a complete once-over. Here’s a checklist based on pro advice:
Empty and clean tackle boxes: Dump out old bait and gear. Wipe boxes with soap and water (even sit them in the sun to kill odors). Let them dry fully before restocking.
Lure by lure inspection: For each lure: clean as per above steps, sharpen all hooks, and replace any broken or rusty parts. Whip dull hooks back to sharpness now, so you won’t be blanked later. As a tackle-care guide notes, don’t be the angler who gets skunked due to a dull hook.
Organize and inventory: Sort lures by type or season (whichever you prefer). Take stock: note what you’re low on (maybe time for some new jig trailers or swimbaits). Consider what new baits you want to try.
Check terminal gear: Replace old leaders, worn-out swivels, split rings, snaps, etc.. Cheap snaps or rusty split rings are a waste of money if they break mid-fight.
Clean rods and reels: While not lures, give rods a wipe-down (mild soapy water on cork handles and guides) and ensure reel drags are light with new grease. The Fisherman suggests giving reels a pro tune-up once a year, and at home clean any salt/grime off before lubing. Don’t store reels wet in cases – leave them open to air.
Final organization: Return fresh lures to dry boxes (with silica packs). Keep a sharpeners and pliers handy as part of your spring tackle kit.
Bonus tip: A toothbrush is your friend not just for reels – The Fisherman notes that an old toothbrush or a Magic Eraser does wonders cleaning lures, handles, and even lure boxes. Soak nasty stuff and scrub it off now, rather than having to fish with it later.
Storage Tips for Freshwater vs Saltwater
How you store lures can differ slightly by water type:
After freshwater fishing: Rinse lures if they hit any weeds or muck, but freshwater usually isn’t corrosive. Still, give them a quick rinse and dry. Check for bass teeth or bugs stuck in it. Store in your regular tackle box at home. Keep freshwater plastics (worms, frogs) in their bags or parted by type in trays. A little mothball or cedar chip (for moth prevention) is fine in a freshwater tackle bag, but avoid mothballs if any salt touch was involved.
After saltwater fishing: Rinse immediately! Saltwater is highly corrosive, so flush every lure (hard or soft) with tap water the moment you can. Use a detergent wipe if needed. Then dry thoroughly. Many saltwater anglers keep a separate “pocket survival kit” of sunblock and wipes, but don’t forget lure care. Keep saltwater spoons, jigheads, and wire materials apart from your freshwater gear.
General storage: Always keep lure boxes closed, labeled, and off the ground (rat-proof). Plano-style boxes or waterproof bags are great. For soft plastics, original sealed bags are ideal – no need to transfer to tackle trays (this prevents bending and sticking as noted). Many anglers swear by keeping plastics in vacuum-sealed bags or zipper bags with a desiccant. For hard baits, use dividers so paint isn’t scratched.
Use silica packs everywhere: In both freshwater and saltwater tackle boxes, stash silica gel pouches to absorb humidity. Fish in humid climates (summer, tropics) especially benefit from this. Even if you dry everything, some moisture sneaks in. A few dollars worth of silica packs can keep hooks shiney.
Check periodically: Every couple of months, open storage boxes to inspect. A catch we learned: even “unused” lures can get surface rust in a damp basement. When storing for winter, consider resealing plastics or airing everything out one last time before putting it away.
Common Mistakes and Myths
Even experienced anglers can fall prey to lure-care myths. Here are mistakes to avoid:
Myth: “It’s new, no need to clean yet.” Wrong! Even new lures can have machine oil or dust. A quick wipe of new lures will extend their glossy life. More importantly, after each use they should be cleaned – not only when they look bad.
Mistake: Storing lures wet. This is the #1 sin. Many anglers pack up after a weekend and forget moisture. The result is rusty hooks and corroded snap-swivels. Always dry first, then store.
Myth: “Paper towels or heat are fine to dry lures fast.” Be careful: sticking lures near a heater or in direct sun can warp plastics or fade paint. Use a cloth or normal shade-air drying.
Mistake: Using harsh chemicals. Never drop lures in bleach or straight acetone thinking it’ll restore them. These can bleach out colors, melt soft plastics, or weaken finishes.
Myth: WD-40 fixes everything. WD-40 helps remove rust and repel water, but it’s oily and smelly. Use it sparingly (and wipe off excess) if you do use it to protect blades.
Mistake: Mixing lure types carelessly. Soft plastics and painted hard baits shouldn’t share a box: solvents or colors can bleed. Also, don’t jam heavy sinkers or hooks into a box full of plastics – weight dents them.
Myth: “Tape or enamel fixes chips indefinitely.” Touch-ups (with nail polish or paint) can hide scars, but they chip off. It’s better to replace lures when the action or finish is gone rather than rely on duct tape.
Mistake: Ignoring tool maintenance. Care for your pliers, nippers, and hook files too. A dirty or rusty tool can introduce contaminants to your tackle.
The bottom line: Treat your lures like tools. A little upkeep effort saves frustration later. As Fisherman magazine emphasizes, proper tackle care before the season avoids a lot of frustration once the fish arrive.
Tips from Experienced Anglers
Seasoned anglers often share what works best in the real world:
Keep scent in check. Some pros store fishing line and lures in zipper bags with a dryer sheet or scented cloth to ward off plastic odors (for soft plastics) or fishy scents. Others rinse lures with scent-free soap to avoid introducing unintentional baits scent.
Organize by use. Tournament anglers often sort lures by technique or species, so you can grab one box and have everything needed. This makes inventory and maintenance easier. For example, a bass angler might group all frog topwaters together, all crankbaits by depth, etc.
Avoid storing in original waxed cardboard boxes. The Fisherman advises keeping lures in plastic or waterproof cases, since cardboard absorbs water. Old magazines often show anglers ditching retail boxes after one use.
Use household items: Beyond detergent, anglers report success with things like Go-Jo hand cleaner (the red grease-cutting soap used in auto shops) to remove stubborn grit from rubber baits. Another tip: slipping a small piece of sandpaper into your tackle box can (gently) polish blades as you rummage through.
Test tackle regularly: Keep a hook sharpener in your boat or backpack. Sharpen hooks at the dock before each trip. Also, fish with a magnifying glass at home to check hook points – a keen-eyed buddy once found a nearly-smooth hook point before it cost a fish.
Replace saltwater-spec components: Saltwater anglers often swap out factory hooks and rings for stainless steel versions and use corrosion-resistant coatings. Even freshwater lures fished in the ocean benefit from 316-stainless upgrades.
Know when to retire a lure: Experienced fishermen will finally throw away a spoon or plug that’s too chipped or pitted. No amount of polish can restore a cratered finish. It’s cheaper to replace a spoon ($2–$3) than lose a trophy fish on it. This isn’t exactly a “tip”, but it’s a hard-learned lesson: some gear just goes beyond salvage.
Storage Setup Ideas (Illustrated)
Fig: A well-organized tackle box on a dock, with assorted lures, lines, and bobbers in separate compartments.
Proper storage is the last step in lure maintenance. Keep tackle boxes neat, dry, and organized so lures aren’t jumbled. Use slotted trays or foam inserts for topwaters. Pill organizers or small plastic cases work for terminal tackle. As shown above, dedicated compartments for line, floats, and spare hooks prevent tangles. For saltwater, consider a waterproof bag or rigged-out tackle bag you can rinse the whole bag after each trip.
For soft plastics, heavy-duty waterproof tackle boxes (Plano 3500/3700 series) are popular – they seal out water and often have removable trays. Label your boxes by lure type or technique. Freshwater anglers might use livewell totes or cooler bags when fishing weeds, then transfer to at-home boxes. Always store boxes in a cool, dry place at home. Avoid attics or damp basements where humidity rises.
Conclusion & Next Steps
Keeping your lures clean, dry, and organized is a small investment of time that pays off big on the water. By following the tips above—like removing rusty parts, rinsing with fresh water, and using proper storage—you’ll extend the life of your tackle and maintain peak lure performance. Tackle care really is the difference between a smooth spring fishing season and a string of frustrating tangles and misses.
Grab a toothbrush and Dawn, get those hooks sharp, and give your gear some love this weekend. Your future self (and future catches) will thank you.
For high-quality replacement lure components, maintenance kits, and top fishing tackle, be sure to visit LureBolt. They offer everything from hooks and split rings to custom jig tails and tackle storage solutions. Tight lines and happy cleaning!