Saltwater fishing can mean anything from casting along mangrove-lined flats after redfish and trout to trolling the open ocean for tuna and mahi-mahi. So, what are the most popular fishing lures for saltwater fishing? Anglers rely on a diverse arsenal – soft plastics, popping plugs, spoons, jigs, hardbody swimbaits, and trolling gear – each suited to particular species, depths, seasons and locations. In this friendly, comprehensive guide we’ll break down the top lure categories, explain when and how to use each, share pro tips and common mistakes, and even highlight regional favorites (Gulf Coast vs. Pacific vs. Australia). Whether you’re wading the flats or offshore in a boat, read on for the low-down on saltwater lures – and see how to gear up for success.
Soft Plastic Lures
Soft plastic lures are among the most versatile inshore saltwater baits. These rubbery baits – paddle-tail grubs, curly-tail worms, shrimp-imitations, jerkworms and more – come in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colors to ”match the hatch” for whatever prey fish are feeding on. For example, a paddle-tail swimbait mimics a small mullet, while a curly shrimp imitative lure looks like a crustacean. Anglers rig plastics on jigheads or worm-hooks; heavy jigheads let them sink fast in deep holes, while 1/8–1/4 oz heads work well for shallow flats. You can also rig a weedless hook (like a swimbait or worm hook) to cast plastics into mangroves or grass without snagging. Experienced anglers note that white or chartreuse plastics are “universal” starting colors, and darker hues show up well in stained or low-light conditions. Adding scent (try pre-scented lures or a saltwater-specific attractant) can entice finicky fish. In short, soft plastics can be fished almost anywhere: under popping corks in the shallows, sight-cast to docks, “hopped” along the bottom, or straight-swum on a steady retrieve. They truly cover many water layers – one cast with a paddle tail might hook a spotted trout in the shallows, the next cast a redfish in 5’ of water.
When to Use & Species: Soft plastics shine for inshore species. Use shrimp-shaped plastics (with a gentle twitch) for redfish, seatrout, snook and flounder – especially where shrimp are the natural forage. Use paddle-tail or jerk-style plastics (twitch-pause-twitch) for speckled trout, bass, and snook in open water or grass flats. Smaller worm or grub plastics are great for gamefish around docks and pilings. Seasonally, match the local prey: in spring and summer when mullet or glass minnows dominate, fish mullet- or baitfish-pattern plastics; in fall shrimp season use realistic shrimp plastics.
Pro Tips: Always match size: if fish are chasing tiny bait, switch to a smaller jighead or 3″ plastic. Vary the retrieve – slow-roll the plastic with occasional twitches, or lift-and-drop it like an injured shrimp. In current, go heavier to reach bottom; in slick calm water, use lighter heads. Rig plastics under a popping cork with a 6″ leader for an easy-fire shrimp presentation.
Field Tip: Use fluorocarbon leaders (15–30 lb) for plastics – lighter rigs in clear water, heavier in dirty water or for toothy fish.
Avoid: Casting too heavy a jighead for the lure size. An oversized weight can make the tail’s action “dead”. Also avoid using a spring sinker rig (like a Carolina rig) in saltwater plastics unless targeting flounder; it often tangles.
Common Mistake: Retrieving soft plastics too fast. The wiggling tail needs time to pulsate in the water. If you’re not getting bites, slow down your retrieve or give extra twitches. And don’t forget to add a drop of scented saltwater bait gel on each soft lure during neutral bite conditions.
Topwater Lures (Plugs & Walkers)
Topwater lures create explosive strikes and see the fish – and angler – flare in excitement. Poppers (hollow-nosed plugs) and “walk-the-dog” pencil plugs (long slender stickbaits) live on the surface. These lures imitate baitfish (or frogs) splashing or “skipping” on top. To fish them, cast to likely structure (shoreline, channel edges, weed lines) and use a pop–pause–pop retrieve for poppers: a series of pops and short pauses makes a popping noise and splash that triggers nearby predators. After a few pops, pause – often the strike happens on the pause as fish ambush the lure. With walk-the-dog baits (like a Zara Spook or Moonwalker plug), twitch the rod tip steadily as you reel to impart a side-to-side zigzag action.
When to Use & Species: Topwater is prime during low light (dawn/dusk) or when fish feed on surface bait. Inshore, redfish, snook, tarpon and seatrout will smash topwaters along flats and backcountry. In the surf or reef, schools of mackerel, bluefish, jacks, or even GT (trevally) will eat poppers. Topwater seasons peak in warm months when baitfish are plentiful. Even offshore, large poppers or stickbaits can target tuna and kingfish (think big Mango stickbaits), though often anglers prefer subsurface lures for those.
Pro Tips: Tie a loop knot for best action, so the plug can kick and dart freely on retrieves. Keep the rod tip down and reel evenly, pausing often. Crucial: When a fish hits a topwater, don’t strike immediately. Let it “eat” the lure first – wait a second or two, then set the hook firmly. In many species (bass, redfish, trout, tarpon, etc.), instant hooksets pull the lure out of the mouth. Let that popper go underwater first before loading up.
Field Tip: If fish are following but not hitting, try a slower or erratic retrieve. For poppers, also try letting it sit extra long after the last pop – sometimes the sound of splashing by itself lures in a fish.
Avoid: Using a topwater lure on super choppy water – the sound/detail won’t translate. Also avoid jerking the rod as soon as you see splashes. Hold on!
Spoons & Metal Lures
Spoons and other metal lures flash and shimmer to simulate fleeing baitfish. A classic example is the gold or silver spoon (e.g. Johnson Silver Minnow). These lures have a concave, curved shape that makes them wobble and flash as they move. The shimmering reflections and erratic wobble trigger strikes. Gold spoons are staples in many tackle boxes – salt-impregnated fishermen swear by gold in stained water and silver in clear water. A straight retrieve is often best: just reel at a pace that lets the spoon wobble naturally. In grassy areas, reel high to keep it gliding above cover.
When to Use & Species: Cast spoons anywhere you suspect active fish. Inshore Gulf waters, anglers catch trout, reds, flounder and bass on spoons by working them through potholes and flats. They’re deadly on schooling jacks, Spanish mackerel and bluefish – any aggressive predator. Light spoons (1/2–1 oz) for reds/trout; medium spoons (1–2 oz) for larger jacks or tuna inshore. Spoons are also effective offshore: heavy casting spoons (3+ oz) or flutter spoons can be jigged for tuna, amberjack or wahoo on reefs. A spoon’s versatility makes it “a staple… in more inshore saltwater fisherman’s tackle boxes than any other lure”.
Pro Tips: Color matters. In dirty water or low light, gold (“copper”) shines brighter; in gin-clear conditions, silver with reflective scale patterns is more natural. Add a stinger hook or trailing jig when fish are bite-shy. Troll spoons at slow speeds (3–5 kn) to cover water. If casting, let the spoon sink a few seconds for depth, then reel evenly.
Field Tip: Don’t retrieve too fast or the spoon will spin. You should feel it wobbling – if you just see it spinning end-for-end, slow down. Also, try pauses in your retrieve; a spoon fluttering in place often triggers strikes from following fish.
Avoid: Fishing spoons too deep without weight. If chasing a tuna school at 50 ft, drop the spoon with a sinker so it reaches depth, or use a downrigger/planer. Also avoid excessive snags in bottom structure; use weedless spoons near reefs.
Jigs (Bucktails & Metal Jigs)
Saltwater jigs can be roughly split into feather/bucktail jigs (often cast or jerked) and heavy metal jigs (for deep jigging).
Bucktail Jigs: These classic jigs have a weighted head and deer-hair (bucktail) skirt. A simple white bucktail jig is an age-old workhorse for saltwater: it’s “caught snook, redfish, speckled trout, and even tarpon”. The bucktail’s flowing fibers create lifelike pulsations. Toss a bucktail near structure (dock pilings, oyster bars, drop-offs) and let it flutter to the bottom, then hop it or reel it slowly. Bounce it off the bottom for flounder or sea bass, or swim it steady for cruising predators. Adding a soft plastic trailer or a bit of Flashabou to the hook can boost action. Bucktail jigs come in many sizes: small (1/8–1/4 oz) for clear shallow water, larger (1–3 oz) for deeper or rough conditions.
When to Use & Species: Bucktails are versatile. Inshore, fish them for reds, trout, snapper, snook, and nearshore cobia or jacks. They work both shallow and moderately deep. They’re easy for beginners, too: cast out, let sink, then reel with a jigging motion.
Metal Jigs: Heavy metal jigs (lead or tungsten blades) are used from boats over reefs and pelagic hotspots. These include butterfly or slow-pitch jigs and long “wobble” jigs. Drop a metal jig straight down to the bottom and then jig it rapidly to mimic a fleeing baitfish. Saltwater fish like amberjack, grouper, snapper and even pelagics (wahoo, tuna) will smash a metal jig. For example, an 8–12 oz “butterfly jig” fished near wrecks or humps will attract hungry jacks and amberjacks. Similarly, 4–6″ flutter spoons (like Acme Kastmasters) can be jigged in 20–50 ft of water for snapper and scup. Vary the drop speed: sometimes a quick “fall and rip” triggers a strike, other times a slow flutter is best.
Pro Tips: Match jig weight to depth/current. In 50 ft of water with current, you might need 8–12 oz, whereas calm shallows need 2–4 oz. Use a fairly stiff rod – you want to feel the jig bite. After hooking a fish, let it jump and shed the jig; re-bite often happens after the bounce.
Avoid: Forgetting to strip slack quickly on the fall – when jigging deep, keep tight. Also avoid tiny jig heads in strong current – too much weight is better than missing the bite.
Hard Plastic Lures (Crankbaits, Jerkbaits, Lipless)
Hard-bodied lures cover water fast and can imitate baitfish with built-in action. This category includes plug-style lures (swimmers, jerkbaits, crankbaits) and lipless cranks.
Walking/Swimmer Plugs (Shallow-divers): We discussed topwater plugs; here we mean shallow divers and walk-the-dog pencil plugs working just below the surface. These hard plugs often have internal rattles. For inshore use, models like the Zara Spook Jr, Rapala Skitterwalk or MirrOlure Walk’R are popular. Cast them long, retrieve with alternating jerks and twitches – the lure will “walk” in a zigzag on the surface or slightly subsurface. Trout, redfish, and mackerel love these.
Jerkbaits/Soft Flukes: Not all jerkbaits are hard – some are soft plastics. But the technique is similar: a slender plug or fluke that glides enticingly. As Salt Strong notes, a jerkbait (fluke style) will be eaten by ”anything that eats a baitfish”. In shallow flats, fish a skinny 4″ jerkbait weightless, twitch-pause-twitch, like DOA CAL or Zoom Fluke. This imitation of a fleeing baitfish is deadly on reds, trout, snook. For deeper water or faster species (mackerel, bluefish), rig the same lure on a 1/4–1/2 oz jig head and strip fast. On the pause, it suspends and screams “easy meal” to nearby predators.
Pro Tips: Jerkbaits are stealthy – they don’t spook fish like noisy plugs. Use them when fish are pressured or in clear water. Try “twitch-pause-twitch” or steady twitching; longer pauses let the lure suspend and trigger finicky fish. Keep the rod tip down so the lure glides naturally.
Lipless Crankbaits & Shad Bombs: These are weighted, compact baits that sink quickly and vibrate strongly (e.g. Shimano Glide Bait, SumGuru, etc.). They’re worked faster, often popping to the surface with a jerk (making a loud splash). Lipless baits excel when fish are aggressively feeding. Inshore, anglers use rattle shads for trout and redfish. Offshore, large lipless cranks (8–10″) are trolled or cast for tuna, mahi, wahoo, and surface-popping.
Hard Swimbaits: Large hard-plastic swimbaits (like 5–8″ lipped divers or segmented swimbodies) mimic minnows, mullet or eels. They have a built-in swimming action. Fish them slowly around structure or through schools of bait. In shark-infested areas they even resemble dinner!
Swimbait Example (Australia): In heavier surf or big-fish situations, anglers switch to large paddle-tail swimbaits. For instance, ZMan 4–6″ SwimmerZ (with fat mullet-shaped tails) are cast into surf gutters to target big tailor, queenfish and trevally. These large swimbaits can be rigged on 5/8–1 oz jig heads and thrown far into the wash. Their “plenty of thump” from the tail draws explosive strikes.
Trolling Lures & Offshore Tactics
When fishing offshore or on big open water, trolling lures come into play. This includes skirted lures (with baitfish or squid skirts), diving plugs, and other towable baits used behind the boat. Some of the most popular big-game lures are:
Skirted Teasers & Ballyhoo Rigs: You often see big yellow skirts streaming from outriggers behind sportfishing boats. Under these are hooked live bait (ballyhoo, mullet) or artificial squid. Brands like Da Vinci, Black Bart, or Nomad make skirted “dredge” lures. Fish them at 5–10 kn to attract tuna, mahi, wahoo and marlin. The moving skirts and teaser bait mimic a small school of baitfish.
Cedar Plugs & Popper Plugs: Traditional cedar lures (polyurethane today) are rolled in the surface wake. They dive on the pause and “walk” on retrieve. Big tuna anglers love large cedar plugs (7–9″). Classic plugs like the Wilson Teaser or Original Marlin Magic fit this bill. Similarly, giant popper plugs (5–8″) can be cast or trolled – imagine a pitching spoon on steroids. These are worked for tuna, especially around floating debris (where flying fish gather). As one tuna guide notes, “Popular lures for tuna fishing include cedar plugs, poppers, and skirted trolling lures”.
High-Speed Lures: For speedsters like wahoo and kingfish, fast-trolled lures are used – often long flashy plugs called jets or cedar plug variants (e.g., Rapala Snap Rap, Yo-Zuri Mag Darter). These are trolled 20–30+ kn.
Planers and Spoons: Downriggers or planer boards get deeper-running lures down to big bluefin or deep pelagics. Heavy stainless spoons (Warpigs, Spin Doctors) dropped to 200+ ft can be jigged back up for tuna and billfish.
Offshore Species: Tuna (yellowfin, blackfin, albacore) and mahi-mahi (dorado) will hit almost any top-end lure you tow through feeding schools. King mackerel (kingfish) often strike skirts and plugs. Even marlin are teased and then hooked with a giant lure. On big boats, lure selection and spread patterns are art: a mix of teasers, flat lines, and deep divers covers all layers.
Regional Patterns:
Gulf Coast & Atlantic: Here, lures like gold spoons, soft shrimp/grub plastics, and popping cork rigs dominate inshore. Offshore, Gulf anglers troll cedar plugs, ballyhoo rigs and heavy spoons for tuna, wahoo and cobia. (Cobia often eat skirted lures like teasers.) In the Atlantic Southeast, twitchbaits (MirroShad), topwater plugs (Pencil poppers), and squid imitations are also big.
West Coast & Pacific: The Pacific coast (e.g. California, Mexico, Panama) sees more hard divers and metal jigs for deepwater rockfish, halibut and yellowtail. Swimbaits and large soft plastics (Donkeybaits, McRubber) are popular for bass/halibut. Near Hawaii, slow-trolled plugs and ballyhoo work for tuna and mahi.
Australia: Aussie anglers favor metal slugs and soft paddletails on the surf and coast. As one Australian surf-fishing guide writes, “One of the most popular lures in a beach/surf kit is a metal slug”. Slender jigging metals (20–40g) like the TT Lures Hard Core are cast for tailor, salmon, queenfish, mackerel and even tuna. Soft plastics (like 3–6″ ZMan MinnowZ and SwimmerZ) are also staples – anglers have landed 20+ tailor on a single paddle-tail during a session. In northern Australia, heavy poppers and stickbaits lure giant trevally (GT) and queenfish around reef flats, while vibes and smaller metals tackle coral trout and snapper.
Seasonal & Water-Depth Tips
Flats & Light Tackle: On shallow flats or estuaries, lighter lures (<1 oz) allow finesse. Use small jigs and plastics in calm summer months. In winter, try bigger presentations (2-3″ jerkbaits or 1/2 oz spoons) to match migrating baitfish.
Mullet/Shad Runs: When bait schools (mullet, menhaden, shrimp) are on the move, match them. For example, during Florida mullet runs, fishing a mullet-shaped paddle-tail can be deadly. Around dock lights at night, glow or white plastics are hot.
Spring Spawning/Bay Fish: In spring, bay anchovies or shad run up rivers; suspending minnow lures (twitchbaits) are excellent for spotted trout and bass in these clear runs.
Offshore Thermocline: In summer offshore, fish deep jigs or trolling lures along weed lines/temperature breaks for tuna and mahi. In spring/fall, fish closer to reefs with medium spoons and plastics for snapper and grouper.
Expert Tips & Common Mistakes
Match the Hatch: Always start by observing forage. If shrimp are around, fish shrimp-imitator lures on jig heads (even under a cork). If the water is alive with glass minnows, a twitchbait or paddle-tail is gold. This rule is nearly universal for saltwater.
Vary Retrieve Speed: Fish can switch on and off – if nothing’s hitting, try a different cadence. For paddletails especially, try slow, fast, hops and twitches – “do anything else you can think of” with the rod tip until a fish commits.
Rig Appropriately: Change jighead weights and leader strengths with conditions. In grass and mangroves use weedless rigs; in current, go heavier. Carry both single-hook and treble-hook lures. Be ready to swap trebles for single hooks on exposed heads for easier unhooking (and safety) when dealing with big fish like mackerel or permit.
Line & Knots: Use fluorocarbon or monofilament leader (15–40 lb) to hide your line in clear water. Many saltwater topwaters suffer cut-offs by barracuda or sharks, so a wire leader is often essential when trolling for tuna or using shiny lures for small sharks.
Don’t Overlook Scent: Many inshore lures (shrimp plastics, shrimp-jigs) work even better with a dab of attractant. A fish that bumps your lure may bite on a scented one.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
Wrong lure for conditions: Don’t toss a noisy topwater lure into a howling wind or dull day – fish might not see or hear it. Likewise, don’t bomb a tiny plastic in muddy water.
Too heavy gear: Using a giant lure and heavy rod on small fish often spooks them. Match the fish size.
Not letting the lure work: Some anglers reel too fast. Remember: soft plastics need action time, spoons need to wobble, jigs need pauses – give them that motion.
Hook timing: Especially on topwater or twitchbaits, avoid jerking instantly. Fish often inhale then turn. A common fix: count “one-one-thousand” after the strike before setting the hook.
Final Thoughts
Saltwater fishing requires adapting to many environments and species. There’s no single best lure – instead, a well-rounded saltwater arsenal includes each type above. By matching your lure to the target species, depth and season – and learning from pros’ tips – you’ll catch more fish. We’ve covered the most popular saltwater lures (soft plastics, topwater plugs, spoons, jigs, hardbodies, swimbaits and trolling lures) along with when and how to use them. Now it’s time to gear up! Check out LureBolt for a great selection of saltwater lures and get ready to hook up. Tight lines, and enjoy your next saltwater adventure!